Diwali is known as the festival of lights. All over India and Nepal, for about a week beforehand, houses and shops started to be decorated in hundreds of fairy lights. It really is beautiful to see.

In Janakpur, Nepal where we celebrated the main day, as well as fairy lights, every shopfront and house was decorated with Banana tree branches, with bridges of bamboo stuck into it on which candles were lit. They also used a rainbow of coloured sand to paint intricate pictures in front of their shops and houses. It was truly beautiful and made even the dodgiest and dirtiest street look amazing.

Here are some photos. It was a really beautiful festival that we are thankful we were able to experience.

The markets were pumping and full of colour and we were greeted over and over by locals “welcoming” us to Nepal, and little kids who just wanted to hang with us because we were cool. 

After safely arriving in Dharan thanks to the kungfu tout (see previous blog) and having spent a pleasant afternoon exploring the market and town, we packed our bags again ready to take the 9:30am bus to Janakpur the following day to celebrate Diwali. We had already confirmed with the bus touts that there was not only a 9:30 bus to Janakpur, but an 8am and an 11am bus too.

So when we arrived at the bus station at 8:30 and were told that, in fact, the only bus to Janakpur had already left at 5am, we were a little frustrated.

Over breakfast we consulted with the restaurant owner we had just befriended and he advised us to take a local bus to Itahari, from where there would be a bus every half an hour to Janakpur. Or, that we might in fact, be able to make it all the way to Narayangadh (for Chitwan National Park). And so we boarded a local bus with a few chickens and a pig, and headed to Itahari, in 2 minds about where to go.

At Itahari bus station we casually enquired about the next bus to Janakpur only to be told it wasn't until 3 pm!! WHAAT? What happened to every half an hour? Where were all these other buses going? After telling them we were planning on going towards Chitwan if we couldn’t go direct to Janakpur, we were instead advised to take a bus going to Birgunj and get off at a random junction town that wasn’t on our map. And so we did.

Once aboard the bus a stranger struck up a conversation with us and told us he was going to Janakpur! So we were on the right bus afterall? Although we would still have to change buses again. So do we go to Janakpur then? Or continue on to the random junction town on the way to Narayandagh? Hmmm.. We let the stranger convince us.  Apparently Janakpur was THE place to experience Diwali in Nepal. And so we decided for the 3rd time that day to change our destination and head to Janakpur with him! And then he changed his mind and said he wasn’t going to Janakpur afterall, but to a town near to it. lol

After 6 or so hours we were dropped off at a tiny junction town with no more than a handful of huts. We were soon surrounded by a curious crowd who told us where to wait for the bus and even hailed the bus for us!! With no English spoken by them, and no Nepali by us, we communicated with smiles and got on the bus when we were told to.

A further 30 minutes later and we were dropped off by the side of yet another road with only a handful of shops. Was this Janakpur? 2 guys from the bus started haggling with a rickshaw driver for us, and after the price was settled upon, got back on the bus and continued on their way. We couldn’t believe the bus had actually waited for them to haggle for us!!

As soon as we sat in the rickshaw another guy came running over and joined us. He was a doctor and gave us a guided tour of the town and surrounding villages, as well as an explanation about Diwali and what we should do.

What an adventure of a day. 3 buses and a rickshaw later and we were finally in Janakpur, apparently the most amazing town in Nepal to celebrate Diwali and it didn’t disappoint. It was a truly beautiful experience. The whole town was lit up with candles, and banana tree leaves and coloured sand adorned every shop front. We walked the streets for hours. Streets that normally would seem dirty or dodgy, suddenly seemed beautiful as the shadows danced in the candle light and locals danced and sang and played with fire crackers. We met many lovely people and were “welcomed to Nepal” countless times. It was a truly amazing experience and made the arduous journey more than worth it. 

But most of all, it was an amazing lesson in trust. Trusting our sixth sense. Trusting locals who were trying to help. Trusting in ourselves. And surrendering to the adventure at hand. 

Nepal, whilst not a difficult place to travel, is certainly a lot raw-er and, so far, off the beaten path than India or Sri Lanka were. And we are LOVING it!