Laos
You need plenty of time in this secret world.
What can we say? It you have heard that the tourist trail in Laos is amazing, just wait until you step off it.
The tourist trail so to speak, sees the majority of tourists spending 1 week in Laos, travelling down river from Thailand to Luang Prabang, they go tubing and get drunk in Vang Vieng, and then they head for Vientiane and back to Thailand.
What they don't see is the Plain of Jars and the mine fields in the deep northeast, the dense jungles and hill tribes to the north west, they don't get to travel down the mighty river Ou (or not so mighty) through otherwise unaccessible tribes on a long boat, nor do they get to go swimming through caves, or riding around beautiful plateaus in the south. Laos really had so much to offer.
Borders - Crossing the border from any of the Thai borders is mostly very simple and relatively fast. Crossing to or from China in the north can be a bit harder but as long as visas are in order, it shouldn't be a problem. It usually takes a really long time to get to and from the border, but the crossings with Vietnam in the east are also no problems. Do be aware when crossing into Cambodia from the 4000 islands, south of Laos as there is a bus ticket scam operating on the Cambodian side.
What to do - Most people go to Laos to party on the river in tyre tubes in Vang Vieng, a small river town that has now been transformed into a western town of no shame. It makes interesting people watching to sit in a cafe eating pizza and other wonderful western delights, and to watch drunk and stoned tourists stumble along the streets practically naked!!
Around Vang Vieng there are some stunning caves and rivers to go explore and do some caving.
Luang Prabang is a great French colonial town with lots of culture, interesting architecture and a beautiful waterfall and sun-bear rehabilitation centre.
Vientiene was over rated and we did not think it is worth the rap every one gives it, ok food, over priced rooms for what they were worth. in our opinion the lest time spent here the better! Saftey here shouldnt be something to concer yourself with to much, then again do remeber you arent at home any more. get your self a good combination padlock for your door or your backpack and dont leave your valuables unatended.
The Plain of Jars are very interesting, although heartbreaking at the same time. The South of Laos, is for the most part untouched and extremely beautiful. Town hopping down the Mekong is fun, and renting a motorbike to ride into the mountains discovering caves and valleys is a great way to meet the locals.
From the North in Phongsali, you can take a slow long boat all the way down to Luang Prabang in as little as 3 days, or as long as you like.
Dangers - The only real danger in Laos, is never wanting to leave. If you go tubing though, be careful to watch your belongings as sometimes they tend to go on their own holidays....
Beer - Beer Lao is the national beer, and is usually between 8700 to 10000 kip per delicious bottle. We rate it as one of the best beers in Asia. Be warned that beer is more expensive at restaurants - simply go to a shop and take your own!
Water - Buy sealed bottled water or use refill stations. Ice is fine, and brushing your teeth with tap water is also not a problem. Remarkably water is more expensive than beer!
Food - Lao food is great! There is a good range of vegetable dishes (amazing vegetable soups!), good soups, delicious curries and a strong french influence means that baguettes abound in the cities! There is not a great deal of street food (except for the vegetarian stalls in Luang Prabang) but there are lots of small local restaurants to eat at.
Transport - Buses and minivans are the common way for people to get between towns and always make stops at cafes or restaurants atleast every couple of hours. Booking buses is usually cheaper if done directly through the bus station, and not from the guesthouse. Scooters are easy to rent (and cheap to buy!!) and are both reliable and comfortable.
Accommodation - From cheap bamboo huts, all the way up to 5 star hotels, there is something for everyone in Laos. Vientiene and Luang Prabang are both expensive and difficult to find accommodation in, so booking in advance is recommended.
Overall - We managed to keep our budget pretty low by staying in some great cheap guesthouses and eating local food. Occasionally we splurged but we were always careful to buy our drinks from shops and not from restaurants.
What can we say? It you have heard that the tourist trail in Laos is amazing, just wait until you step off it.
The tourist trail so to speak, sees the majority of tourists spending 1 week in Laos, travelling down river from Thailand to Luang Prabang, they go tubing and get drunk in Vang Vieng, and then they head for Vientiane and back to Thailand.
What they don't see is the Plain of Jars and the mine fields in the deep northeast, the dense jungles and hill tribes to the north west, they don't get to travel down the mighty river Ou (or not so mighty) through otherwise unaccessible tribes on a long boat, nor do they get to go swimming through caves, or riding around beautiful plateaus in the south. Laos really had so much to offer.
Borders - Crossing the border from any of the Thai borders is mostly very simple and relatively fast. Crossing to or from China in the north can be a bit harder but as long as visas are in order, it shouldn't be a problem. It usually takes a really long time to get to and from the border, but the crossings with Vietnam in the east are also no problems. Do be aware when crossing into Cambodia from the 4000 islands, south of Laos as there is a bus ticket scam operating on the Cambodian side.
What to do - Most people go to Laos to party on the river in tyre tubes in Vang Vieng, a small river town that has now been transformed into a western town of no shame. It makes interesting people watching to sit in a cafe eating pizza and other wonderful western delights, and to watch drunk and stoned tourists stumble along the streets practically naked!!
Around Vang Vieng there are some stunning caves and rivers to go explore and do some caving.
Luang Prabang is a great French colonial town with lots of culture, interesting architecture and a beautiful waterfall and sun-bear rehabilitation centre.
Vientiene was over rated and we did not think it is worth the rap every one gives it, ok food, over priced rooms for what they were worth. in our opinion the lest time spent here the better! Saftey here shouldnt be something to concer yourself with to much, then again do remeber you arent at home any more. get your self a good combination padlock for your door or your backpack and dont leave your valuables unatended.
The Plain of Jars are very interesting, although heartbreaking at the same time. The South of Laos, is for the most part untouched and extremely beautiful. Town hopping down the Mekong is fun, and renting a motorbike to ride into the mountains discovering caves and valleys is a great way to meet the locals.
From the North in Phongsali, you can take a slow long boat all the way down to Luang Prabang in as little as 3 days, or as long as you like.
Dangers - The only real danger in Laos, is never wanting to leave. If you go tubing though, be careful to watch your belongings as sometimes they tend to go on their own holidays....
Beer - Beer Lao is the national beer, and is usually between 8700 to 10000 kip per delicious bottle. We rate it as one of the best beers in Asia. Be warned that beer is more expensive at restaurants - simply go to a shop and take your own!
Water - Buy sealed bottled water or use refill stations. Ice is fine, and brushing your teeth with tap water is also not a problem. Remarkably water is more expensive than beer!
Food - Lao food is great! There is a good range of vegetable dishes (amazing vegetable soups!), good soups, delicious curries and a strong french influence means that baguettes abound in the cities! There is not a great deal of street food (except for the vegetarian stalls in Luang Prabang) but there are lots of small local restaurants to eat at.
Transport - Buses and minivans are the common way for people to get between towns and always make stops at cafes or restaurants atleast every couple of hours. Booking buses is usually cheaper if done directly through the bus station, and not from the guesthouse. Scooters are easy to rent (and cheap to buy!!) and are both reliable and comfortable.
Accommodation - From cheap bamboo huts, all the way up to 5 star hotels, there is something for everyone in Laos. Vientiene and Luang Prabang are both expensive and difficult to find accommodation in, so booking in advance is recommended.
Overall - We managed to keep our budget pretty low by staying in some great cheap guesthouses and eating local food. Occasionally we splurged but we were always careful to buy our drinks from shops and not from restaurants.
Places we stayed
Adounsiri Guest house – Luang Namtha 50,000Kip ($6) *******.5
cute dogs, big rooms, comfy beds, hot water, friendly, quiet location
Phosay Guesthouse – Oudomxai 30,000 Kip ($3.60) ****
Viphaphone Hotel – Phongsaly 60,000 Kip ($7.20) *****
Keophila 2 Guesthouse – Muang Khua 50,000 Kip ($6) *****
New Bungalows – Muang Ngoi 50,000 Kip ($6) *******
Tinglong Bungalows – Nong Khiaw 30,000 Kip ($3.60) *****
Namsok Guesthouse – Luang Prabang 80,000 Kip ($9.60) ******
Viengsavahn Guesthouse – Vang Vieng 50,000 Kip ($6) ******
good area away from parties, with bathroom, comfy and clean
Syri 1 Guesthouse - Vientiane 80,000 Kip ($9.50) ******
new mattress, big room with bathroom, good verandahs, quiet location
Tanoy Guesthouse – Luang Prabang 60,000 Kip ($7.10) ******
very clean, shared bathroom, great location, friendly & homely
Khon Keo Guesthouse – Phonsavan 60,000 Kip ($7.10) *****
Dreamtime Eco Retreat – Vientiane 70,000 Kip ($8.30) ********.5
Sedon River Guesthouse – Pakse 50,000 Kip ($5.90 ******.5
Sihom Sabaidee Guesthouse – Paksong 50,000 Kip ($5.90 ******
cute dogs, big rooms, comfy beds, hot water, friendly, quiet location
Phosay Guesthouse – Oudomxai 30,000 Kip ($3.60) ****
- good location, NO shower, only public toilet, horrid mattress but close to the bus station.
Viphaphone Hotel – Phongsaly 60,000 Kip ($7.20) *****
- big room, cable tv, dodgy wiring, giant hole in wall to bathroom – no security
Keophila 2 Guesthouse – Muang Khua 50,000 Kip ($6) *****
- noisy, thin walls, hot shower, good view
New Bungalows – Muang Ngoi 50,000 Kip ($6) *******
- brand new, 1st person to use room! Great views! Very luxurious, w Bath
Tinglong Bungalows – Nong Khiaw 30,000 Kip ($3.60) *****
- simple but comfy, bathroom outside, quiet area, cheap!
Namsok Guesthouse – Luang Prabang 80,000 Kip ($9.60) ******
- with bathroom, nice room but expensive, very dark so great for sleeping!
Viengsavahn Guesthouse – Vang Vieng 50,000 Kip ($6) ******
good area away from parties, with bathroom, comfy and clean
Syri 1 Guesthouse - Vientiane 80,000 Kip ($9.50) ******
new mattress, big room with bathroom, good verandahs, quiet location
Tanoy Guesthouse – Luang Prabang 60,000 Kip ($7.10) ******
very clean, shared bathroom, great location, friendly & homely
Khon Keo Guesthouse – Phonsavan 60,000 Kip ($7.10) *****
- big rooms with bathroom &blankets, clean and comfy, a little musty, great showers
Dreamtime Eco Retreat – Vientiane 70,000 Kip ($8.30) ********.5
- heaven!! awesome bungalows in forest outside Vientiane, shared bathrooms but funky
- big restaurant, with bathroom, big rooms, comfy & good location
- beautiful old building, quiet, with bathroom & mandi, good verandahs
Sedon River Guesthouse – Pakse 50,000 Kip ($5.90 ******.5
- beautiful location on river, big rooms with bathroom, clean & safe
Sihom Sabaidee Guesthouse – Paksong 50,000 Kip ($5.90 ******
- big house with lots of rooms, share big bathroom, funny mozzie nets, average restaurant
- amazing location on river, bungalows with bath & comfy clean rooms, good restaurant
- very friendly, great food, nice rooms with bathroom and verandah, very quiet, no hammocks, hot.
- hammocks! clean & comfy bungalows, shared bathroom, nice location over river & not in city