BALI
Bali is one of the most popular tourist destinations for Australians (being so close) and as such, we were very reluctant to go. However, when you are starting on a "travel for as long as you can" adventure, price is everything and with the price of flights from Brisbane to Bali being irresisitably low, we were off!
When people talk about Bali they often talk about beautiful beaches, surfing, parties or an island of spiritual beauty, however, we found none of this in Bali, and, quite honestly, were happy to leave!
What we did see was bare-chested, culture-disrespecting foreign tourists, tacky souvenir shops, dirty beaches, black sand, pollution, rubbish, and did I mention the drunk foreign tourists making fools of themselves?
But that is our opinion and we know lots of people who simply love Bali, which is great but it simply wasnt for us.
Bali is one of the most popular tourist destinations for Australians (being so close) and as such, we were very reluctant to go. However, when you are starting on a "travel for as long as you can" adventure, price is everything and with the price of flights from Brisbane to Bali being irresisitably low, we were off!
When people talk about Bali they often talk about beautiful beaches, surfing, parties or an island of spiritual beauty, however, we found none of this in Bali, and, quite honestly, were happy to leave!
What we did see was bare-chested, culture-disrespecting foreign tourists, tacky souvenir shops, dirty beaches, black sand, pollution, rubbish, and did I mention the drunk foreign tourists making fools of themselves?
But that is our opinion and we know lots of people who simply love Bali, which is great but it simply wasnt for us.
Transport tips for Bali
To leave Kuta can be very difficult unless you have your own transportation, otherwise there isn't much choice but to take a tourist bus. The local Bemos very inconveniently (or conveniently depending on who's wallet is talking) don't go direct to even Ubud so you are left little choice but to take a tourist bus. Make sure you shop around though as prices vary greatly for the same seat on the same bus! Once you leave Ubud, the options are alot better. You can still travel via tourist bus or rental scooter, or you can travel with the locals on a series of Bemo share taxis or even hitch-hike. It might take a little longer, but its alot cheaper and a fantastic experience! Alternatively you can rent a scooter in Bali, leave you big luggage somewhere and ride around on your own.
Food: Outside of Kuta finding street food is quite simple and is usually quite cheap and of good quality. Remember the golden street food rule of "if the locals are eating there, it must be OK" and let your tastebuds go on holidays aswell! In Kuta there are atleast a million eating options, some reasonably priced, others ridiculous. Street food is quite difficult to find and even if you do, its catered for the tourist market which means "risky." Afterall, they don't really care if you never go back do they?
You can read more about our experiences and where we visited here:
1 Bali by Rob
2 Bali by Roh
To leave Kuta can be very difficult unless you have your own transportation, otherwise there isn't much choice but to take a tourist bus. The local Bemos very inconveniently (or conveniently depending on who's wallet is talking) don't go direct to even Ubud so you are left little choice but to take a tourist bus. Make sure you shop around though as prices vary greatly for the same seat on the same bus! Once you leave Ubud, the options are alot better. You can still travel via tourist bus or rental scooter, or you can travel with the locals on a series of Bemo share taxis or even hitch-hike. It might take a little longer, but its alot cheaper and a fantastic experience! Alternatively you can rent a scooter in Bali, leave you big luggage somewhere and ride around on your own.
Food: Outside of Kuta finding street food is quite simple and is usually quite cheap and of good quality. Remember the golden street food rule of "if the locals are eating there, it must be OK" and let your tastebuds go on holidays aswell! In Kuta there are atleast a million eating options, some reasonably priced, others ridiculous. Street food is quite difficult to find and even if you do, its catered for the tourist market which means "risky." Afterall, they don't really care if you never go back do they?
You can read more about our experiences and where we visited here:
1 Bali by Rob
2 Bali by Roh
A Balinese family in Amed hollowing out a tree trunk to become a boat.
JAVA
Java was a big surprise to us. We were not expecting such a culturally and environmentally diverse island, with volcanoes, beaches, palm trees, multicultural cities, beautiful ancient relics, and much much more!
From crazy bustling insane Jakarta to super cool Yogyakarta, Java has a little something for everyone. If you are interested in doing a homestay and learning about traditional life, then we highly recommend "Yudi's homestay" (for contact details see the accommodation section at the bottom of the page). Yudi lived in New Zealand for many many years and speaks simply amazing English aswell as 3 other languages and will bend over backwards to make sure you have a unique experience. He can organise tours to do, or you can just lie around and do nothing. It's up to you.
Transport: Java is extremely easy to get around. The trains are fast, convenient, comfortable and cheap, and the buses aren't bad either! Within the cities Bemo and Becak are easy and convenient but don't forget to haggle and don't feel bad to do the 'walk away" either.
Food: Street food is easy to find and delicious! The island is so diverse that you can usually always find something new to try and being alot less touristy than its neighbouring Bali, the prices are extremely decent. Most larger towns/cities have night-time street stalls that open up along the main road after dark and are a haven for local delicacies and local-watching. Ask at your guesthouse for directions to the market nearest you!
3 Java part 1
4 Java part 2
Java was a big surprise to us. We were not expecting such a culturally and environmentally diverse island, with volcanoes, beaches, palm trees, multicultural cities, beautiful ancient relics, and much much more!
From crazy bustling insane Jakarta to super cool Yogyakarta, Java has a little something for everyone. If you are interested in doing a homestay and learning about traditional life, then we highly recommend "Yudi's homestay" (for contact details see the accommodation section at the bottom of the page). Yudi lived in New Zealand for many many years and speaks simply amazing English aswell as 3 other languages and will bend over backwards to make sure you have a unique experience. He can organise tours to do, or you can just lie around and do nothing. It's up to you.
Transport: Java is extremely easy to get around. The trains are fast, convenient, comfortable and cheap, and the buses aren't bad either! Within the cities Bemo and Becak are easy and convenient but don't forget to haggle and don't feel bad to do the 'walk away" either.
Food: Street food is easy to find and delicious! The island is so diverse that you can usually always find something new to try and being alot less touristy than its neighbouring Bali, the prices are extremely decent. Most larger towns/cities have night-time street stalls that open up along the main road after dark and are a haven for local delicacies and local-watching. Ask at your guesthouse for directions to the market nearest you!
3 Java part 1
4 Java part 2
WHERE WE STAYED
- Kuta, Bali (can't remember the name) 400,000 IDR ($47) 2nts ******
nice way to start the trip but expensive! expensive food in the restaurant, fun swim up bar
- Ubud, Bali - homestay 60,000 IDR ($7) 2nts *******
bathroom inside, very cute and friendly, good free breakfast, nice setting
- Amed, Bali - Eco-dive 0 IDR (free with dive course!) 3 nts *******
awesome simple bungalow with bathroom and mozzie net, right opposite the beach - very convenient for beach dives, would be perfect if had view
- Banyuwangi, Java - Local homestay with Sapi and family 0 IDR 4nts ***
nice quiet village but overall a very awkward experience
- Solo, Java - Istana Griya 60,000 IDR ($7) 4nts *******
simple rooms (some with private bathroom), good inclusive breakfast, great atmosphere, excellent tours and very informative staff
- Yogyakarta, Java - Losmen Anda 35,000 IDR ($4.10) 3nts *****
basic with bathroom but great value for price, directly next door to a mosque - Jakarta, Java - Kresna homestay 50,000 IDR ($5.80) 1 nt * Horrible! simply filthy room and disgusting mandi, mozzies galore and a horrible stench
- Jakarta, Java - Bloem Steen homestay 60,000 IDR ($7) 1 nt **** Directly next door to Kresna but sooo much better with a clean room and mandi but lots of noise.
- Cianjur, Java - Yudis homestay 180,000 IDR (including all meals and tours) ($21.20) 9 nts ******** Wonderful homestay program with great food, clean rooms, excellent tour guides and just a beautiful area and experience. For more information look in the Indonesian or South East Asia Lonely Planet or email Yudi at: westjava2002@gmail.com
SUMATRA
Indonesia is so diverse, and everybody falls in love with a different piece of it. We fell in love with Sumatra.
From its busy and over crowded capital Medan, to its dense lush jungles of Bukit Lawang with their resident population of Orangutans and the last known Sumatran Rhinos in the world, Tsunami ravaged Banda Aceh in the north, the world's largest and second largest volcanic lakes, and more stunning beaches and islands than you can count, there is so much to see and do here, it will leave you wanting more.
Although Sumatra is one of the least visited of Indonesia's islands, it is, unfortunately one of it's famous. On boxing day 2005, an undersea earthquake rocked the very northern tip of Sumatra sending a massive wall of water over 50ft high and at speeds of over 150km an hour, screaming towards the unsuspecting population of the low-lying province. The result was catastrophic, with entire towns wiped clean off the map, along with generations of families killed all at the same moment.
Although there is still a lot of visible damage in the way of broken houses, rubble and the occasional boat on a roof, slowly the area is returning to its former sleepy fishing town glory.
Accessibility: Sumatra is just off the west coast of Malaysia and stretches south down to Java. As such it is possible to travel to Sumatra by either boat from Malaysia or northern Java, or by plane. At the moment the only “visa on arrival” ports are the airports in Banda Aceh, Padang and Medan. If you arriving via a different means or airport, it is imperative to organise your visa beforehand (Kuala Lumpur is quick and easy.)
Safety: Sumatra, and especially, Banda Aceh has a reputation as being “dangerous” mainly due to it being a predominately Muslim area. There are still occasional bouts of fighting between the Banda Aceh Independence league and the government but these always take place way away from the prying eyes of tourists. It really is a very very safe place to travel, and after the economical destruction of the Tsunami, visiting will definitely help the people. You may find the people to be overly friendly and constantly asking where you are going. They mean no harm and are literally just being friendly. The term “Mau kemana?” or “Where are you going” is simply the Bahasa equivalent of “How are you?”
Culture: Sharia Law is in effect in most of Sumatra, and although it is not expected that women wear Jilbabs, a certain amount of respect is expected. Dress conservatively and make sure shoulders and knees are covered (both males and females) and unless you are at a private tourist beach, be sure to swim fully clothed like the locals. Solo women travellers may find the constant leering of men annoying, another good reason to dress like the locals do.
Shopping: You will find markets and shops almost everywhere in Sumatra, and even in the smallest town you will still be able to buy batteries, snacks, and other necessities.
Food: Standard Indonesian food is plentiful. In the bigger cities or tourist areas (Danau Toba, Bukkitinggi etc) it is quite easy to find reasonably cheap International food aswell. As with the rest of Indonesia, vegetarians will be able to survive, albeit on the same 3 meals of Fried rice, Fried noodles and noodle soup... Fresh fruit and vegetables are easy to find almost anywhere.
Cold beer: Being predominately muslim, beer and alcohol can be difficult to find. If you are desperate, ask around at the tourist areas or hotels and someone should be able to point you to a backdoor somewhere, but be warned, it will be very very expensive.
Water: Ice is safe, but you are best to buy water in a bottle or from a refill station.
Transport: Buses are the main mode of transport. Mostly they are overcrowded and full of chain-smokers. Even the non-smoking AC buses will have atleast one chainsmoker. The AC is usually set to freezing so make sure you have a sarong or blanket with you. Semi-regular stops are made for toilets, however quite often the driver doesn't check if guests are back so pay attention to when he heads back to the bus.
Accommodation: Accommodation is everywhere and you can something for every budget. Good, basic, fan rooms are usually around 40,000 to 50,000.
From its busy and over crowded capital Medan, to its dense lush jungles of Bukit Lawang with their resident population of Orangutans and the last known Sumatran Rhinos in the world, Tsunami ravaged Banda Aceh in the north, the world's largest and second largest volcanic lakes, and more stunning beaches and islands than you can count, there is so much to see and do here, it will leave you wanting more.
Although Sumatra is one of the least visited of Indonesia's islands, it is, unfortunately one of it's famous. On boxing day 2005, an undersea earthquake rocked the very northern tip of Sumatra sending a massive wall of water over 50ft high and at speeds of over 150km an hour, screaming towards the unsuspecting population of the low-lying province. The result was catastrophic, with entire towns wiped clean off the map, along with generations of families killed all at the same moment.
Although there is still a lot of visible damage in the way of broken houses, rubble and the occasional boat on a roof, slowly the area is returning to its former sleepy fishing town glory.
Accessibility: Sumatra is just off the west coast of Malaysia and stretches south down to Java. As such it is possible to travel to Sumatra by either boat from Malaysia or northern Java, or by plane. At the moment the only “visa on arrival” ports are the airports in Banda Aceh, Padang and Medan. If you arriving via a different means or airport, it is imperative to organise your visa beforehand (Kuala Lumpur is quick and easy.)
Safety: Sumatra, and especially, Banda Aceh has a reputation as being “dangerous” mainly due to it being a predominately Muslim area. There are still occasional bouts of fighting between the Banda Aceh Independence league and the government but these always take place way away from the prying eyes of tourists. It really is a very very safe place to travel, and after the economical destruction of the Tsunami, visiting will definitely help the people. You may find the people to be overly friendly and constantly asking where you are going. They mean no harm and are literally just being friendly. The term “Mau kemana?” or “Where are you going” is simply the Bahasa equivalent of “How are you?”
Culture: Sharia Law is in effect in most of Sumatra, and although it is not expected that women wear Jilbabs, a certain amount of respect is expected. Dress conservatively and make sure shoulders and knees are covered (both males and females) and unless you are at a private tourist beach, be sure to swim fully clothed like the locals. Solo women travellers may find the constant leering of men annoying, another good reason to dress like the locals do.
Shopping: You will find markets and shops almost everywhere in Sumatra, and even in the smallest town you will still be able to buy batteries, snacks, and other necessities.
Food: Standard Indonesian food is plentiful. In the bigger cities or tourist areas (Danau Toba, Bukkitinggi etc) it is quite easy to find reasonably cheap International food aswell. As with the rest of Indonesia, vegetarians will be able to survive, albeit on the same 3 meals of Fried rice, Fried noodles and noodle soup... Fresh fruit and vegetables are easy to find almost anywhere.
Cold beer: Being predominately muslim, beer and alcohol can be difficult to find. If you are desperate, ask around at the tourist areas or hotels and someone should be able to point you to a backdoor somewhere, but be warned, it will be very very expensive.
Water: Ice is safe, but you are best to buy water in a bottle or from a refill station.
Transport: Buses are the main mode of transport. Mostly they are overcrowded and full of chain-smokers. Even the non-smoking AC buses will have atleast one chainsmoker. The AC is usually set to freezing so make sure you have a sarong or blanket with you. Semi-regular stops are made for toilets, however quite often the driver doesn't check if guests are back so pay attention to when he heads back to the bus.
Accommodation: Accommodation is everywhere and you can something for every budget. Good, basic, fan rooms are usually around 40,000 to 50,000.
Where we stayed in Sumatra:
Prapat Hotel – Banda Aceh 100,000IDR ($11.80) *****
basic rooms, noisy, and overpriced – yet still the cheapest in Banda Aceh.
Yulias Guesthouse – Iboih 50,000IDR ($5.90) ********
great bungalow over the water but average food at the restaurant, shared bathroom is brackish water only.
Indah – Bukit Lawang 40,000IDR ($4.70) ***
okay basic room, average food at the restaurant, super noisy and not a good location. Beware of touts trying to take you here!
Garden Inn – Bukit Lawang 50,000IDR ($5.90) *******.5
great view, great chillout area with good food, rats and monkeys will eat anything left on your verandah.
Sunrise View – Berastagi 50,000IDR ($5.90) ******
nice view, basic unmemorable motel style room, cold water only (even though it is freezing at nights!)
Liberta homestay – Danau Toba 40,000IDR ($4.70) *******
great batak style rooms with loft &hot water! lots of trees&gorgeous communal area. just by the lake. Good food and staff.
Blue Angel Hotel – Medan 60,000IDR ($7) ****
noisy but clean with own mandi. centrally located. broken bed but sleepable
Orchid Hotel – Bukittinggi 40,000IDR ($3.60) ******.5
rooftop special room with awesome view! Ok room with shared bathroom. More expensive rooms downstairs, Comfy and safe.
Lily's Homestay – Danau Maninjau 55,000IDR ($5) *******
beautiful garden, view, and location. A lot of effort has gone into the design of the bungalows. be careful of thieves.
Hotel Campago – Bukittinggi ********
amazing room with stunning view! Needs more cleaning and maintenance. A 4 star resort with matching prices.
Hotel Benyamin – Padang 75,000IDR ($6.80) ****
noisy during the day but ok at night, basic but clean rooms, donuts for breakfast, rude reception.
Echo Lodge – Harau Valley 50,000IDR ($4.50) *******
very cute and well maintained bungalows in stunning scenery. Good restaurant, setting, and staff. Awesome bathroom with plants! Very eco friendly and conscious.
Losmen Kanada – Tapaktuan 35,000IDR ****
cheap but good for price. Rooms clean-ish, mattresses super thin, bathrooms okay. Safe, convenient and friendly.
Losmen Mini – Singkil 60,000IDR ($5.50) *****
super clean basic rooms with great mattresses, double beds, fan, mozzie spray! Very friendly and helpful! Owner speaks good english, mandis clean and simple. Quiet area but tv ALWAYS on.
Losmen Simeuleu – Sinabang, P. Simeuleu 65,000IDR ($5.90) ******
a nice view of inside the jail! Staff friendly although no english! comfy beds.
Losmen Putri – Pulau Balai, P. Banyak ******.5 65000 small room, 85000 aircon large.
very friendly, comfy room w ac! Great food! Good location. Mozzie nets would be good.
basic rooms, noisy, and overpriced – yet still the cheapest in Banda Aceh.
Yulias Guesthouse – Iboih 50,000IDR ($5.90) ********
great bungalow over the water but average food at the restaurant, shared bathroom is brackish water only.
Indah – Bukit Lawang 40,000IDR ($4.70) ***
okay basic room, average food at the restaurant, super noisy and not a good location. Beware of touts trying to take you here!
Garden Inn – Bukit Lawang 50,000IDR ($5.90) *******.5
great view, great chillout area with good food, rats and monkeys will eat anything left on your verandah.
Sunrise View – Berastagi 50,000IDR ($5.90) ******
nice view, basic unmemorable motel style room, cold water only (even though it is freezing at nights!)
Liberta homestay – Danau Toba 40,000IDR ($4.70) *******
great batak style rooms with loft &hot water! lots of trees&gorgeous communal area. just by the lake. Good food and staff.
Blue Angel Hotel – Medan 60,000IDR ($7) ****
noisy but clean with own mandi. centrally located. broken bed but sleepable
Orchid Hotel – Bukittinggi 40,000IDR ($3.60) ******.5
rooftop special room with awesome view! Ok room with shared bathroom. More expensive rooms downstairs, Comfy and safe.
Lily's Homestay – Danau Maninjau 55,000IDR ($5) *******
beautiful garden, view, and location. A lot of effort has gone into the design of the bungalows. be careful of thieves.
Hotel Campago – Bukittinggi ********
amazing room with stunning view! Needs more cleaning and maintenance. A 4 star resort with matching prices.
Hotel Benyamin – Padang 75,000IDR ($6.80) ****
noisy during the day but ok at night, basic but clean rooms, donuts for breakfast, rude reception.
Echo Lodge – Harau Valley 50,000IDR ($4.50) *******
very cute and well maintained bungalows in stunning scenery. Good restaurant, setting, and staff. Awesome bathroom with plants! Very eco friendly and conscious.
Losmen Kanada – Tapaktuan 35,000IDR ****
cheap but good for price. Rooms clean-ish, mattresses super thin, bathrooms okay. Safe, convenient and friendly.
Losmen Mini – Singkil 60,000IDR ($5.50) *****
super clean basic rooms with great mattresses, double beds, fan, mozzie spray! Very friendly and helpful! Owner speaks good english, mandis clean and simple. Quiet area but tv ALWAYS on.
Losmen Simeuleu – Sinabang, P. Simeuleu 65,000IDR ($5.90) ******
a nice view of inside the jail! Staff friendly although no english! comfy beds.
Losmen Putri – Pulau Balai, P. Banyak ******.5 65000 small room, 85000 aircon large.
very friendly, comfy room w ac! Great food! Good location. Mozzie nets would be good.
