Bangladesh
Bangladesh is the type of place that you can explore for a long time. It is not a place that you visit if you want to travel easily and comfortably on the tourist trail. It is by every definition a "developing country" and most of it's tourism sector is similarly still developing – which, in our opinion, is the exact reason to go!
Most of the country still lives below the official poverty line, earning less than one dollar a day. Which means that it is very visibly poor – no matter which way you look or what colour sunglasses you are wearing. However, amongst the poverty, you will find smiles, laughs, beautiful hearts and some of the happiest people in the world.
On average only 30 foreigners a day enter Bangladesh, most of them aid workers. That means that you will hardly see another traveller the whole time you are there, or, that if you do, it will be the same ones over and over. What it also means is that in most parts of the country (even in the more touristy areas) tourists are still very much a novelty and there is a very real chance that you could be the very first foreigner that little child has ever seen! People will literally run across the road in front of traffic to say hi, to shake your hand or to ask how they can help you – because you are a visitor in their country, and as such, you are family. It is a country that is guaranteed to make you feel warm and fuzzy inside.
Borders - Bangladesh shares borders with India to the north, west and east, and with Myanmar to the south east, however at the time we were there, the Indian borders were still the only ones open for crossing, and only with a priorly issued valid visa.
Environment - Bangladesh is quite a diverse country for such a small land mass. The north abounds in lush hills and tea plantations, while the south is home to the Sundarbans mangrove forest. In between you will see lush forests, barren land, beautiful rivers, baron fields, rice fields and much much more.
Considerations - Bangladesh is a Muslim country so be conscious of your appearance (especially women, make sure your shoulders and knees are covered at all times.) With so few tourists, foreigners already stand out like a sore thumb. We had some Shalwar Kameez tailored very cheaply and found them not only comfortable, but very practical for the climate. As much as the western world loves to Stigmatise Muslim countries, the stereotypes could not be further from the truth in Bangladesh. Quite often people would stop us on the streets to talk to us about terrorism and islam and they were always so upset that the good word of Islam was being used in such a negative way. There is really nothing at all to worry about.
Also be aware that due to the lack of tourism, your behaviour will be interpreted as representing the entire outside world. More often than not you will be offered local prices as the concept of overcharging hasn't caught on yet, so go easy on the haggling. Don't be offended if people stop and stare, most Bengali's haven't seen very many foreigners before and they are just curious.
Dangers – In general Bangladesh is a very safe country to travel in, however Dhaka is a different story. During the day the streets are too overcrowded for anything to possibly happen (you physically would not be able to run away) but at night it becomes a dangerous place. The locals are not exaggerating when they tell you to stay indoors after dark. We were with a friend in a rickshaw travelling home slightly after dark (we were literally 50m from our hotel) when she had her bag snatched by a passing taxi and she was dragged from the rickshaw into oncoming traffic. Luckily she was fine, although she did lose everything. Being such a poor country it is also recommended that you keep valuables in the hotel safe and not in your room, and that you are careful when paying in public. Go to a bank and buy as many small notes as possible.
Recommendations –
* drink as much cha (tea) as possible because you will really miss it after you leave!
* Don't be surprised if a local strikes up a conversation with you and buys you a cha – it is not a scam, they are just being friendly. They will most likely invite you to visit their business or home aswell. Accept it – it is a wonderful experience! (Although sometimes it can get overwhelming – just smile and say no if you dont want to go.)
* Visit the Sundarbans while you still can. Most tours offer overnight packages that leave from far upstream, we did a day trip from Mongla and were able to travel even further into the Sundarbans than those on an overnight cruise. Try to find a guide who has been recommended to you as some can be shifty. You will also need to hire a compulsory armed guard, not for robbers, but incase a Bengal Tiger finds you!! That being said you are highly unlikely to see one although we did see fresh pawprints!
* Go down river on the Rocket. First class has its own butler and verandah giving amazing views. The décor is very 1950s and really makes you feel like you have stepped back in time. Second class has no verandah but you do have your own cramped room. Third class is literally sleeping wherever you find a spare patch of ground. We went first class (for the experience) but were still able to wander around the boat and mingle. It was a very surreal experience but the extra dollar was definitely worth it.
* Coming into Chittagong you will pass the infamous ship breaking yards. Although “technically” you are not allowed to enter, you can stand at the gate and watch. It was one of the most amazing things we have ever seen.
* There is no tourist trail so just jump on a train and make your own path – no matter where you end up, you will have an amazing time.
Food – Bengali food is not super diverse. You will find an endless repeat of dahl, chapati, egg, chicken, chicken curry and cha. The food is simple, and well, repetitive. Don't expect the same spices that you find in India. You can get any of the food above from a street vendor at pretty much any time of day for about 30 cents and it is perfectly safe to eat. To eat the same in a restaurant will cost around $3 and most times, be of a lesser quality.
Vegetarian food – To be honest, Bangladesh is not an easy country if you are vegetarian, let alone Vegan. Rob is vegetarian and ate nothing but chapati and egg, 3 times a day for most of the month. In some markets you can find vegetables such as tomato and cucumber and some herbs like rosemary and basil. Rob used to buy these and eat them in a chapati, kind of like a salad wrap. Bananas are usually quite easy to find aswell. You may be wise to bring some instant soups or noodles from home.
Water & drinks: Buy water in sealed bottles. Tap water is not drinkable. Cha (Bengali tea - very different to Indian Chai) is made from boiling water and is perfectly fine to drink. And make sure you drink lots!! You will really miss it when you leave.
Beer: Forget about it. You can apparently get a bottle of beer at the hilton, but apart from that, being a strict muslim country alcohol doesnt exist. However, for some reason, when you fly out of Dhaka you will find some of the cheapest duty free spirits you will ever see. $10 for a litre of Bacardi Oro anyone?
Transport: Make sure you have travel insurance, this is not a joke. We have travelled a lot and on a lot of dodgy transport but buses in Bangladesh were the first time we really thought we were going to die. The buses are cramped, dirty and uncomfortable with sometimes unlicensed would-be-rally drivers behind the wheel. The roads are narrow (just big enough for 2 cars to pass) and once a bus starts, it just doesnt stop. On one trip our bus literally hit 3 other buses, ran 4 rickshaws off the road into ditches, hit a motorbike, and was nudged so far off the road that only half the vehicle was on the road - all without stopping! Statistics are astounding – something like 2 planes full of people die each day on the roads?!For shorter distances, taxis are a little safer. CNG's are a great way to get around but make sure it has a lock on the inside of the door for your own safety. Rickshaws are a great way to take in the sights and, depending on the traffic, can actually even be the fastest mode of transportation but becareful of your belongings. For distance travel, where possible, travel by train! The trains are regular, clean, convenient, cheap and safe. And you can even get a cup of cha delivered in porcelain to you by a butler! Trains do fill up quickly though so be sure to book ahead.
Accommodation: If you came to Bangladesh to get a good nights sleep then you have come to the wrong country! Bengaliis LOVE to stay up all night with their TV blaring and their door wide open. But they are also extremely polite so it the TV does get a little intense, they will gladly turn it down for you.
Accommodation can be cheap and most come with mosquito nets (it's not a bad idea to take your own anyway.) Showers are usually bucket showers and usually with cold water, but you can usually get a bucket of hot water in the nicer hotels.
Generally accommodation is safe and comfortable although sometimes hard to find. Check near the port if you are having problems finding something.
Most of the country still lives below the official poverty line, earning less than one dollar a day. Which means that it is very visibly poor – no matter which way you look or what colour sunglasses you are wearing. However, amongst the poverty, you will find smiles, laughs, beautiful hearts and some of the happiest people in the world.
On average only 30 foreigners a day enter Bangladesh, most of them aid workers. That means that you will hardly see another traveller the whole time you are there, or, that if you do, it will be the same ones over and over. What it also means is that in most parts of the country (even in the more touristy areas) tourists are still very much a novelty and there is a very real chance that you could be the very first foreigner that little child has ever seen! People will literally run across the road in front of traffic to say hi, to shake your hand or to ask how they can help you – because you are a visitor in their country, and as such, you are family. It is a country that is guaranteed to make you feel warm and fuzzy inside.
Borders - Bangladesh shares borders with India to the north, west and east, and with Myanmar to the south east, however at the time we were there, the Indian borders were still the only ones open for crossing, and only with a priorly issued valid visa.
Environment - Bangladesh is quite a diverse country for such a small land mass. The north abounds in lush hills and tea plantations, while the south is home to the Sundarbans mangrove forest. In between you will see lush forests, barren land, beautiful rivers, baron fields, rice fields and much much more.
Considerations - Bangladesh is a Muslim country so be conscious of your appearance (especially women, make sure your shoulders and knees are covered at all times.) With so few tourists, foreigners already stand out like a sore thumb. We had some Shalwar Kameez tailored very cheaply and found them not only comfortable, but very practical for the climate. As much as the western world loves to Stigmatise Muslim countries, the stereotypes could not be further from the truth in Bangladesh. Quite often people would stop us on the streets to talk to us about terrorism and islam and they were always so upset that the good word of Islam was being used in such a negative way. There is really nothing at all to worry about.
Also be aware that due to the lack of tourism, your behaviour will be interpreted as representing the entire outside world. More often than not you will be offered local prices as the concept of overcharging hasn't caught on yet, so go easy on the haggling. Don't be offended if people stop and stare, most Bengali's haven't seen very many foreigners before and they are just curious.
Dangers – In general Bangladesh is a very safe country to travel in, however Dhaka is a different story. During the day the streets are too overcrowded for anything to possibly happen (you physically would not be able to run away) but at night it becomes a dangerous place. The locals are not exaggerating when they tell you to stay indoors after dark. We were with a friend in a rickshaw travelling home slightly after dark (we were literally 50m from our hotel) when she had her bag snatched by a passing taxi and she was dragged from the rickshaw into oncoming traffic. Luckily she was fine, although she did lose everything. Being such a poor country it is also recommended that you keep valuables in the hotel safe and not in your room, and that you are careful when paying in public. Go to a bank and buy as many small notes as possible.
Recommendations –
* drink as much cha (tea) as possible because you will really miss it after you leave!
* Don't be surprised if a local strikes up a conversation with you and buys you a cha – it is not a scam, they are just being friendly. They will most likely invite you to visit their business or home aswell. Accept it – it is a wonderful experience! (Although sometimes it can get overwhelming – just smile and say no if you dont want to go.)
* Visit the Sundarbans while you still can. Most tours offer overnight packages that leave from far upstream, we did a day trip from Mongla and were able to travel even further into the Sundarbans than those on an overnight cruise. Try to find a guide who has been recommended to you as some can be shifty. You will also need to hire a compulsory armed guard, not for robbers, but incase a Bengal Tiger finds you!! That being said you are highly unlikely to see one although we did see fresh pawprints!
* Go down river on the Rocket. First class has its own butler and verandah giving amazing views. The décor is very 1950s and really makes you feel like you have stepped back in time. Second class has no verandah but you do have your own cramped room. Third class is literally sleeping wherever you find a spare patch of ground. We went first class (for the experience) but were still able to wander around the boat and mingle. It was a very surreal experience but the extra dollar was definitely worth it.
* Coming into Chittagong you will pass the infamous ship breaking yards. Although “technically” you are not allowed to enter, you can stand at the gate and watch. It was one of the most amazing things we have ever seen.
* There is no tourist trail so just jump on a train and make your own path – no matter where you end up, you will have an amazing time.
Food – Bengali food is not super diverse. You will find an endless repeat of dahl, chapati, egg, chicken, chicken curry and cha. The food is simple, and well, repetitive. Don't expect the same spices that you find in India. You can get any of the food above from a street vendor at pretty much any time of day for about 30 cents and it is perfectly safe to eat. To eat the same in a restaurant will cost around $3 and most times, be of a lesser quality.
Vegetarian food – To be honest, Bangladesh is not an easy country if you are vegetarian, let alone Vegan. Rob is vegetarian and ate nothing but chapati and egg, 3 times a day for most of the month. In some markets you can find vegetables such as tomato and cucumber and some herbs like rosemary and basil. Rob used to buy these and eat them in a chapati, kind of like a salad wrap. Bananas are usually quite easy to find aswell. You may be wise to bring some instant soups or noodles from home.
Water & drinks: Buy water in sealed bottles. Tap water is not drinkable. Cha (Bengali tea - very different to Indian Chai) is made from boiling water and is perfectly fine to drink. And make sure you drink lots!! You will really miss it when you leave.
Beer: Forget about it. You can apparently get a bottle of beer at the hilton, but apart from that, being a strict muslim country alcohol doesnt exist. However, for some reason, when you fly out of Dhaka you will find some of the cheapest duty free spirits you will ever see. $10 for a litre of Bacardi Oro anyone?
Transport: Make sure you have travel insurance, this is not a joke. We have travelled a lot and on a lot of dodgy transport but buses in Bangladesh were the first time we really thought we were going to die. The buses are cramped, dirty and uncomfortable with sometimes unlicensed would-be-rally drivers behind the wheel. The roads are narrow (just big enough for 2 cars to pass) and once a bus starts, it just doesnt stop. On one trip our bus literally hit 3 other buses, ran 4 rickshaws off the road into ditches, hit a motorbike, and was nudged so far off the road that only half the vehicle was on the road - all without stopping! Statistics are astounding – something like 2 planes full of people die each day on the roads?!For shorter distances, taxis are a little safer. CNG's are a great way to get around but make sure it has a lock on the inside of the door for your own safety. Rickshaws are a great way to take in the sights and, depending on the traffic, can actually even be the fastest mode of transportation but becareful of your belongings. For distance travel, where possible, travel by train! The trains are regular, clean, convenient, cheap and safe. And you can even get a cup of cha delivered in porcelain to you by a butler! Trains do fill up quickly though so be sure to book ahead.
Accommodation: If you came to Bangladesh to get a good nights sleep then you have come to the wrong country! Bengaliis LOVE to stay up all night with their TV blaring and their door wide open. But they are also extremely polite so it the TV does get a little intense, they will gladly turn it down for you.
Accommodation can be cheap and most come with mosquito nets (it's not a bad idea to take your own anyway.) Showers are usually bucket showers and usually with cold water, but you can usually get a bucket of hot water in the nicer hotels.
Generally accommodation is safe and comfortable although sometimes hard to find. Check near the port if you are having problems finding something.
Accommodation we stayed at in Bangladesh:
Hotel Pacific – Dhaka 850 T ($12.30) ******
very different to webpage but still good value and safe, hot shower, satellite tv, no safe in room but can use safe at reception, wifi doesnt work but internet is free downstairs, ok restaurant, excellent staff, quiet area away from the craziness of Gulshan.
Hotel Tea Town – Sri mongol 600T/500T ($8.7/$7.2) ****/*****
downstairs room super noisy! Upstairs quieter, have tv(downstairs only), hotwater (20T for a bucket), own bathroom, nice rooftop to watch the world go by, good location.
Rocket 1030T each ($14.90) ******.5
well maintained paddlesteamer, rooms rustic&simple, food exp and obligitory, deck nice, 1st class good value
Hotel Bangkok – Mongla 450 T ($6.50) ****
lots of street noise, dodgy room w dodgy door, dirty &smelly, touts, mozzie nets, cold water, but still the best option in town.
Hotel Fairstar – Barisal 350 T ($5) *****
good value for money, simple, cold water, a little noisy but good location near wharf, sat tv
Hotel Miskha – Chittagong 500 T ($7.20) ******.5
lovely hotel staff, hot water in bucket delivered, sat tv, big room, nice view, quietish, comfy bed, okay restaurant
Hotel Silvershine – Cox's Bazar 400 T ($5.80) *******.5
great value! Hot water, roof top w pool&view, ok restaurant, quiet!!! sat tv, very luxury for the money.
Hotel Nice – Rajshahi 600 T ($8.70) *******.5
very nice! Newly renovated, bright&clean rooms, hot water, bad bed, sat tv, good location, can see India from roof!
very different to webpage but still good value and safe, hot shower, satellite tv, no safe in room but can use safe at reception, wifi doesnt work but internet is free downstairs, ok restaurant, excellent staff, quiet area away from the craziness of Gulshan.
Hotel Tea Town – Sri mongol 600T/500T ($8.7/$7.2) ****/*****
downstairs room super noisy! Upstairs quieter, have tv(downstairs only), hotwater (20T for a bucket), own bathroom, nice rooftop to watch the world go by, good location.
Rocket 1030T each ($14.90) ******.5
well maintained paddlesteamer, rooms rustic&simple, food exp and obligitory, deck nice, 1st class good value
Hotel Bangkok – Mongla 450 T ($6.50) ****
lots of street noise, dodgy room w dodgy door, dirty &smelly, touts, mozzie nets, cold water, but still the best option in town.
Hotel Fairstar – Barisal 350 T ($5) *****
good value for money, simple, cold water, a little noisy but good location near wharf, sat tv
Hotel Miskha – Chittagong 500 T ($7.20) ******.5
lovely hotel staff, hot water in bucket delivered, sat tv, big room, nice view, quietish, comfy bed, okay restaurant
Hotel Silvershine – Cox's Bazar 400 T ($5.80) *******.5
great value! Hot water, roof top w pool&view, ok restaurant, quiet!!! sat tv, very luxury for the money.
Hotel Nice – Rajshahi 600 T ($8.70) *******.5
very nice! Newly renovated, bright&clean rooms, hot water, bad bed, sat tv, good location, can see India from roof!